Kentucky Armory Club

I have a key pad safe. No key back up. Which sucks if something happens. I am currently looking at converting it to a mechanical dial.

Gunsmokin wrote:The one on Westport road is the one I am talking about.

The one on Westport has scratch & dents too


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Get biggest you can fit in the space. You won't regret it!


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Most places around Louisville use Remarkable Safe Moving for delivery. Price depends on where in house you want it and if you want him to bolt it down.


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dbh wrote:Most places around Louisville use Remarkable Safe Moving for delivery. Price depends on where in house you want it and if you want him to bolt it down.


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Gunsmokin has a big appliance dolly. Call him lol. FREE!!!!! Maybe cost you a beer lol

Rem700 wrote:

dbh wrote:Most places around Louisville use Remarkable Safe Moving for delivery. Price depends on where in house you want it and if you want him to bolt it down.


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Gunsmokin has a big appliance dolly. Call him lol. FREE!!!!! Maybe cost you a beer lol

I have moved at least 4 decent sized safes with it, too. One was a Fatboy jr. It'll handle them.

I have one as well. Moved my brother's safe up and down a flight of stairs at his old house and down a flight at his new house.

Thankfully, my house is a single story.

If you buy 10ga or thinner your safe can be pretty easily breached with an axe or usually just pried open. 10ga is obviously much better than 14ga or even thinner, but it's still axe-breachable. I think about 14ga and thinner can just be cut open with a circular saw like a can of tuna. 8ga and thicker steel is pretty much axe-proof, but can be cut into with an angle grinder or quickly torched open. Stainless steel reinforcement or real concrete (both in very expensive safes) protect from torch attacks. Hardened steel plates over the front important bits protect from drill attacks.

The BS "fire board" in these safes is garbage and just doesn't matter in a fire. You're paying for a talisman, for false security and peace of mind. I don't think it does any harm... but you're paying for it, and it doesn't help.

More steel more better. Buy the most steel you can afford. More steel is more mass to move, more mass to heat up in a fire, and probably exponentially (I haven't done the math) more physically secure (from all methods of breaching). Fireboard means nothing. Ceramic blanket and thick steel protect from fires... as much as anything can.... eventually fire claims all. Electronic locks tend to fail a lot more than mechanical locks (actually I've never heard of a mechanical lock failing). Fancy paint and logos don't protect anything. 143 massive active locking lugs don't protect from prying if they're attached to flimsy steel rods or the door is flimsy enough to flex away from them regardless.... THICK STEEL and tight door fitment protect from prying.

Now I'm not saying go buy a true SAFE (not a residential security container like most big metal boxes sold as gun safes) that's an inch thick, reinforced with stainless panels for torch resistance, hardened plates for drill resistance, concrete fill for fire and breach resistance, and as much ceramic blanket as a kiln... Use this information to perform a no-bullshit risk assessment and determine the right amount of security for your situation. Personally I think it's nuts to pay $1000, $2000, or even more for what's essentially a very nicely painted thin sheet metal closet. I can turn your $1500 thin metal closet into nothing with a circular saw, pry bar, or axe. For my situation I want security from simple physical attacks, but if someone decides to lug around a torch (make sure they can't just get yours from the garage) or knows precisely where to drill to bypass your lock, they're getting in one way or another.

Decide what's right for you and KEEP YOUR TOOLS LOCKED UP.

Safe is going on the first floor. The current one was only an issue getting it in the house. Once it was in we were able to slide it on the carpet through the house to where I wanted it. Should be able to do the same this time..going to have to be able to because it's gonna be a tight squeeze just getting the safe around a few of the corners, much less a dolly with it..lol

ssracer wrote:Safe is going on the first floor. The current one was only an issue getting it in the house. Once it was in we were able to slide it on the carpet through the house to where I wanted it. Should be able to do the same this time..going to have to be able to because it's gonna be a tight squeeze just getting the safe around a few of the corners, much less a dolly with it..lol

Put it on a four wheel dolly once you get it into the house.

Whootsinator wrote:If you buy 10ga or thinner your safe can be pretty easily breached with an axe or usually just pried open. 10ga is obviously much better than 14ga or even thinner, but it's still axe-breachable. I think about 14ga and thinner can just be cut open with a circular saw like a can of tuna. 8ga and thicker steel is pretty much axe-proof, but can be cut into with an angle grinder or quickly torched open. Stainless steel reinforcement or real concrete (both in very expensive safes) protect from torch attacks. Hardened steel plates over the front important bits protect from drill attacks.

The BS "fire board" in these safes is garbage and just doesn't matter in a fire. You're paying for a talisman, for false security and peace of mind. I don't think it does any harm... but you're paying for it, and it doesn't help.

More steel more better. Buy the most steel you can afford. More steel is more mass to move, more mass to heat up in a fire, and probably exponentially (I haven't done the math) more physically secure (from all methods of breaching). Fireboard means nothing. Ceramic blanket and thick steel protect from fires... as much as anything can.... eventually fire claims all. Electronic locks tend to fail a lot more than mechanical locks (actually I've never heard of a mechanical lock failing). Fancy paint and logos don't protect anything. 143 massive active locking lugs don't protect from prying if they're attached to flimsy steel rods or the door is flimsy enough to flex away from them regardless.... THICK STEEL and tight door fitment protect from prying.

Now I'm not saying go buy a true SAFE (not a residential security container like most big metal boxes sold as gun safes) that's an inch thick, reinforced with stainless panels for torch resistance, hardened plates for drill resistance, concrete fill for fire and breach resistance, and as much ceramic blanket as a kiln... Use this information to perform a no-bullshit risk assessment and determine the right amount of security for your situation. Personally I think it's nuts to pay $1000, $2000, or even more for what's essentially a very nicely painted thin sheet metal closet. I can turn your $1500 thin metal closet into nothing with a circular saw, pry bar, or axe. For my situation I want security from simple physical attacks, but if someone decides to lug around a torch (make sure they can't just get yours from the garage) or knows precisely where to drill to bypass your lock, they're getting in one way or another.

Decide what's right for you and KEEP YOUR TOOLS LOCKED UP.

This!!!!!!

Short version:
Anything lighter than 7ga can be torn apart with a claw hammer, axe, pray bar, etc.
The frame construction has more to do with a door staying closed than the number of locking pins.
The gap around the door is the single most important security aspect of the door.
Fireboard protects a safe like drywall protects your house. Ceramic and fiberglass blankets are what work
Only stainless will protect against a torch.
Only hardened plate will protect against a drill.
Lightweight concrete works too, but we are not talking $10k+

Sturdy Safe Co. is the best bang for the buck. Full stop.

Thanks for all the input guys. While I would love to have a "real" safe with 1/2" to 2" of steel plates all around, one of those I could afford would be smaller than the safe I currently have. Also a safe is not my only line of defense as the house has alarms and cameras as well so it's not like someone is going to have all the time in the world to break into the safe, not to mention I'm much more likely to have to deal with some smash n grab assholes than someone breaking in prepared to cut through a safe. So while I understand the weak points of what I have, it's the best protection that I can manage right now.

That said, I ended up buying a Liberty FatBoy Jr from Shooter's Supply. They had just gotten one in with a combination dial for $50 less than Cabela's online sale price...and as an added bonus it doesn't say Cabela's across the front..lol.

Now I have to decide how to get it. They recommend a mover and of course provided his card. Said all they can do is move it with a forklift and once they lower it they are done. My lower back has been jacked for a couple of weeks which makes me leery about trying this with a couple of friends but at the same time I hate to dish out another almost $200. But the guy the recommend will deliver and mover it right to where you want it.

ssracer wrote:That said, I ended up buying a Liberty FatBoy Jr from Shooter's Supply. They had just gotten one in with a combination dial for $50 less than Cabela's online sale price...and as an added bonus it doesn't say Cabela's across the front..lol.

Best use of $50... Ever

PDM wrote:

ssracer wrote:That said, I ended up buying a Liberty FatBoy Jr from Shooter's Supply. They had just gotten one in with a combination dial for $50 less than Cabela's online sale price...and as an added bonus it doesn't say Cabela's across the front..lol.

Best use of $50... Ever

lol

Build a concrete safe room or GTFO!

Mike wrote:Build a concrete safe room or GTFO!

If I had a basement...and was planning on staying in this house...

A safe room is definitely a life goal...just not in this house

After moving mine, I'd pay $500...haha

Niceguy wrote:After moving mine, I'd pay $500...haha

lol...good to know. Just left them a voicemail to get a quote.

My last one wasn't bad, just be and one buddy moved it. But it's smaller and about half the weight..lol

It sucked!!! One of the biggest problems with the heavy safe is that there isn't enough room in the steps, and halls, and doorways and all the places you need the extra manpower.

Niceguy wrote:It sucked!!! One of the biggest problems with the heavy safe is that there isn't enough room in the steps, and halls, and doorways and all the places you need the extra manpower.

First floor for mine but there are definitely going to be a couple of tight corners that will not be fun to navigate.

That was the biggest problem with mine also. Stairs weren't terrible, a few tight spots were...

I moved my 700ish pound safe down a ramp and into the house with three friends and a lightweight dolly. I did NOT expect the dolly to survive but it was a trooper lol. There are a ton of tricks and methods to moving a safe, from winches to golf balls. Putting plywood over carpet can make it easier.

Especially for tight corners, the golf balls or similar can be a godsend. It doesn't have to be tilted, making it smaller.

Niceguy wrote:After moving mine, I'd pay $500...haha

Indeed.

I think just getting it out of the truck would be interesting.